Quoted from the New York Times – By Robert Caplin
1. Shoulders
Shoulder fit is crucial, said Tom Kalenderian, the guru of menâs wear at Barneys New York. Itâs worth sacrificing a little mobility for a snug, high armhole. No one is making free throws in a tuxedo.
2. Bowtie
A four-in-hand tie, a favorite style default in Hollywood, is a solecism and âjust wrong,â Tom Ford said. Put on a bow tie and by all means learn to knot your own. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube.
3. Neck
Take an honest measure of your neck. Nobody looks good in a horse harness or a noose.
4. The Closure
In a standard two-button suit, the closure defines an anatomical equator, said the menâs wear expert Alan Flusser. The closure should be at bellybutton latitude.
5. Shirt
Shirts fit better with a taper, according to the designer John Varvatos. âItâs about elegance,â he said, adding that there is nothing elegant about yards of cotton bunched up under your coat.
6. Cuff Reveal
The half-inch rule for the cuff reveal has always been inflexible, said Michael Hainey, deputy editor of GQ. Unless youâre Bruno Mars.
7. Trouser Length
Thom Browne fans may favor Pee-wee Herman lengths, but most men are best served by a modest break atop the shoe.
8. No Trouser Cuffs
No cuffs on tuxedo trousers.
9. Footwear
While pumps are preferred, Mr. Ford said, âmost men think theyâre too femme.â A calf lace-up is an acceptable option; avoid perforations or extraneous details.
10. Watch
A simple steel (or white metal or, if you are bucks-up, platinum) watch with a black leather strap is preferred by those who hold with the tradition that gents donât wear gold after 5 p.m.
